As a Skincare Specialist, I Don't Like These 6 products
Working as an esthetician in a high-end spa, you see a lot of people and a lot of stuff. Here are just a few examples of things that I saw damage many people's faces.
Biotin is touted as the "hair, skin, and nails" vitamin, but let me tell you why you should be cautious. If you've got acne-prone skin, stay far away from biotin. Acneic skin is predisposed to an over-production of keratin (hyperkeratosis), which can make it easier for pores to become clogged, leading to all types of acne. Biotin can increase keratin production, which might be great for our hair and nails, but for skin already over-producing keratin: It's a nightmare.
After having a negative experience with Biotin myself, I always ask my clients if they are taking it. A number of my clients who had stubborn acne stopped taking their multivitamins (that contained biotin) and I watched as their acne finally started responding to my treatments! A few of my guests' biotin induced acne just went away on its own. I understand that biotin can help acne in some, but it can cause more harm than good in others.
If you're acne-prone or just started breaking out, be sure to check your multivitamins. Biotin is in almost EVERY. SINGLE. ONE.
*Note: Be sure to check with your doctor first if they prescribed your multivitamin.
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution (or other strong at-home peels/acids)
Hear me out- I don't really hate this product. I hate that people don't know how to use it. This product is extremely strong. 30% AHA?! A lot of people who impulse buy this product have never even used a 10% AHA on their skin before! Combined with the fact that many people leave it on longer than intended, use it too often, apply it to wet skin, or don't wear SPF daily, there are a lot of ways you can screw up your skin using this product. Your skin needs to build up a tolerance to strong exfoliants. As I said, I don't hate this product. It can just be dangerous and damaging if used incorrectly. Do your research and follow directions diligently before starting something this strong! I've seen enough compromised skin barriers from acids to know that using this product wrong is a really quick way to experience one for yourself.
Any acid or peel can be damaging if used incorrectly.
Pimple Popping Tools
When your dermatologist or esthetician uses these on you, great! They have been trained to do so. But I have seen a lot of unnecessary scars and indent marks on clients who have used these at home. It's really hard to tell when you've used too much pressure until it's too late, and now you've got a broken blood vessel on your nose. I don't even use them on my clients! Instead, I use a sterile lancet, gloves, and gentle pressure with my fingers. Every esthetician differs, but I don't particularly like pimple popping tools. They certainly gave me extra scars to treat for people over the years!
Proceed with caution when using these at home!
We all have products we will never use again. I am always trying new things, and I find that less truly is more in my own routine. Here are a couple of products that DID NOT work for me whatsoever. Keep in mind that just because these didn't work for me, doesn't mean they won't work for you!
*Note: I have an oily t-zone, normal cheeks, and am quite reactive so I breakout easily from certain products/ingredients.
Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum
I was really excited to try this product because I'm a huge Paula's Choice Stan. A lot of my staples are from Paula's Choice. This serum has a lengthy list of good ingredients including antioxidants, plant extracts, and ceramides. TOO many. I don't think my skin was able to process all of the actives. It broke me out pretty bad after only 4 uses. I broke out in painful, red papules that left post-inflammatory erythema (red scars). Despite being marketed for dry skin, it also caused my skin to become extremely flaky and dry. I will say that I enjoyed the texture of the serum quite a bit, which made it sadder that I could not use it.
Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm
I'm slowly trying to transition my skincare routine to cruelty-free, and the Banila Co was my first attempt at replacing my Clinique cleansing balm. The Banila Co cleansing balm had a nice texture but had a weird, strong chemical fragrance. It's odd for a cleanser to break you out because it's not in contact with your skin for very long, but this cleansing balm still managed to break me out in itchy, red acne! Other than fragrance being fairly high on the ingredient list, the rest of the ingredients are alright. It just didn't work for me.
What I love and have been using since is Kose Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil. I'm still on the hunt for a good, cruelty-free cleansing balm, so if you have a favorite please let me know!
Garnier Micellar Water ( Waterproof/Blue Cap)
I really like the original Garnier Micellar Water, but the waterproof version left a heavy film on my skin that led to itchy, fungal breakouts, even after using an actual cleanser afterward. I've had a couple of clients make a switch from the blue cap to the pink cap with good results as well! The ingredients between the two differ quite a bit, using different surfactants and moisturizing agents. But all in all, the original micellar water worked well for my skin, but the waterproof version just caused a mess of issues for me.
What is a product that other people love but you cannot stand?
My AM routine while rocking cherie merch!
@cheriethanks for the cute sweatshirt! I am obsessed. Here is my am routine! sisley - FLORAL TONING LOTION First I tone and prep my skin with this toner. I love this toner so much because it is so hydrating and doesn’t strip the skin. It also moisturizes while helping to clean and prep it to absorb other products. NATURIUM - Hyaluronic Acid Essence 2% Then I use this essence. I love this brand so much and this essence is so hydrating and light. It helps plump and prepares it for the serum. NATURIUM - Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2% Next I use this serum which I have been enjoying. It is super gentle that I can even use it during the day. So far my skin has been tolerating it very well. I also notice my dark spots decreasing much quicker. LORD JONES - Acid Mantle Repair CBD Moisturizer Then I use this moisturizer that I am obsessed with. It so far has been my favorite product of the year. It’s so hydrating and calming. It feels amazing on the skin as well. Last I finish off with a sunscreen. I previously reviewed this before! It’s from Korean brand Corthe. ^^ what do you like to do in your morning routine?
Let’s learn a no heat style! ￼Start by gathering your hair to one side ￼Begin a rope braid in the front by twisting two pieces. Add hair to each section and twist again. Continue this pattern until you reach your ear. ￼Split the remaining hair into two. While holding the section pop index finger and thumb through. Grab through the other section and repeat! Secure with an elastic. Xo
Glass skin? Uhm YES!
This mist is so fun to use. You can use it with makeup or on its own! I tend to use it on bare skin for a natural glowing look. It is a fine mist that moisturizes, nourishes and helps fight damage. It also helps fight irritation and calm the skin. I will be posting a video a little later of me using this before makeup application! Makeup glides on after using this to prep the skin. What’s in it: ￼peach extract ￼Hyaluronic acid ￼Reishi mushroom ￼lotus extract ￼cica ￼ceramides ￼much more! This product has so many awesome ingredients, it’s hard not to love! PEACH & LILY - Glass Skin Veil Mist I will give this a 5/5! Pros: ￼can be used to refresh makeup ￼can be used on bare skin ￼hydrating ￼calming ￼gives a wonderful dewy glow ￼smells nice Cons: ￼$30 for a mist is a bit pricey but this mist does so much in return 💞 let me know a mist you love!
Tips from a dermatologist on sunscreen ☀️
Let’s talk about sunscreen ☀️ What’s a good sunscreen to wear? One that is: * Broad-spectrum protection (protects against UVA and UVB rays) * SPF 30 or higher * Water resistant This will help protect your skin from early skin aging, sunburn, and skin cancer. What is the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens? Chemical sunscreens work like a sponge, absorbing the sun’s rays. They contain one or more of the following ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate. These are often easier to rub into the skin without a white cast. Physical sunscreens (aka mineral sunscreens) act like a shield, sitting on the surface of your skin and deflecting the sun’s rays. These can come on white. They have the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide Reapply every 2 hours when outside in the sun ☀️ Some of my favorites: Tinted: Cerave tinted, la roche posay tinted, alastin CeraVe - Face Sheer Tint Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30 LA ROCHE-POSAY - Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 50 ALASTIN SKINCARE - HydraTint Pro Mineral Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 36 Not tinted: colorescience, drunk elephant colorescience - Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield SPF 50 Sunscreen DRUNK ELEPHANT - Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 What’s your favorite sunscreen?
Why pH of skincare products is important?
The pH is defined as the negative logarithm (base ten) of the concentration of free hydrogen ions in aqueous solution. The pH of skin surface ranges from 4.5 to 6 making it slightly acidic. The acidic nature of the whole skin surface was first claimed by Heuss in 1892; however, the first scientific study was carried out by Schade and Marchionini in 1928, who called it the acid mantle. The “acid mantle” protects the skin by inhibiting the growth of pathogenic organisms, regulating keratinization, desquamation and wound healing. Any disruption in the acid mantle disrupts the activity of enzymes involved in barrier function and anti-microbial protection. The skin pH and the buffering capacity of the skin surface are made up of the components of the stratum corneum as well as the secretions from sebaceous and sweat glands. Sweat is an important contributor towards skin acidity owing to its content of amino acid, lactic acid, and urea, which supplement skin NMF levels. The formation of stratum corneum barrier requires enzymes that are pH dependent. Two lipid-processing enzymes β-glucocerebrosidase and acidic sphingomyelinase require a pH of 5.6 and 4.5, respectively. An increased skin surface pH activates enzyme serine proteases, which causes degradation of corneodesmosomes and affects the skin barrier. pH also has a big impact on the skin microbiome. The bactericidal activity, because of dermicidin and nitrites in sweat, occurs optimally at pH 5.5. The resident bacterial flora changes as pH increases causing increase in population and activity of P. acnes and Staphylococcus aureus which are responsible for acne and eczema. All these result in contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, acne vulgaris and Candida albicans infections. Products with high pH cause swelling of skin follicles affecting the permeability of the skin making it dry, sensitive, and susceptible. Most of the skincare products are formulated within the pH range of normal healthy skin except the exfoliating products that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA’s), Vitamin C products and chemical peel which work at low pH. Facial oils, cleansing oils, balms are not pH dependent.
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